“What’s Nike without just doing it?” —

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Welcome to our latest guest takeover issue of The Dinamo Update.

For these special mailings, I invite artists, writers, and other friends to think about design and fonts from a cultural or social perspective. And this time, Oslo-based Elise By Olsen writes on the graphic design of fashion—and why all the little pieces of ephemera around the industry are actually some of the worthiest things of collecting.

Elise By Olsen (b. 1999) is an editor, publisher, and the founding director International Library of Fashion Research, a cultural institution in Oslo, Norway. We’ve known her for years—and sent many of our fonts to her various publishing rooms. Elise created and edited the youth culture magazine Recens Paper (2013-2017) and the fashion commentary publication Wallet (2018-2021). In 2018 Gucci made a documentary about her work and in 2019 she guest-edited AnOther Magazine, where she currently writes one of my favorite monthly columns, “Paper View”. Over to Elise.

Trash Fashion! 

By Elise by Olsen

Once, as a young aspiring fashionista, I went to Paris Fashion Week for the first time. I was 15 and accompanied by my mother. Before leaving I had printed out the official calendar from Paris Fashion Week’s glamorous website, and ticked off all the shows I wanted to attend with a red ballpoint pen. The most coveted show was, for me, back then, the Dior one. I believe it was the first collection by the then newly-appointed creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri, post-Raf Simons. I stepped up to the show’s designated venue, little me facing a colossal mirror-clad structure, by, I later learned, Bureau Betak.

The structure was placed in the cour carrée, the iconic courtyard of the Louvre. The facade reflected this historic site in the heart of the city. Gasp! I was amazed. Camera flashes from street style photographers hit the mirror wall panels and bounced back at bloggers, influencers, and over-the-top industry figures like a large reflector. Editors-in-chief and celebrities passed by the crowds and went inside. To see and be seen. Somewhere between a panic attack and Stendhal syndrome, I was already amazed by the show, even before entering myself, and even before the models and clothes.

My mother waited outside in the cour carrée with a cigarette in her hand as I snuck into the show—without invitation. I ran through the entrance, passed the uptight black-tie security guards, into long tubes that made a tunnel, which opened into a large spaceship-like hall, with stepped seating. The guests were already seated as security ran after me. Go, go, go! The lights dimmed just as I hid in the back row, camouflaged behind someone’s large, lavish hat. Lights dimmed. Guards stepped out. Models stepped in, onto the runway through a sequence of arched apertures, wearing grandiose habits. Showtime! As soon as it was over, the lights went back on. People left the premises in a hurry, likely to make it to the next one, or to get ahead of the taxi-lines that occupied the entire city during fashion week. 

Top right: Elise’s stolen Dior invite, currently on display in the exhibition “Ephemeral Matters. Into the Fashion Archive” at the National Museum for Norway. Photo by Magnus Gulliksen.

Now, I love a good fashion show, but it’s what happened next that gave me an epiphany and that ultimately inspired my current infinity-project. Tightly dressed staff —interns?—immediately started vacuuming the floor. I stepped out of the nook I was hiding in and started picking up every invitation left behind on the front rows. Eureka! The invitations were precious. Grey stock, soft and gummy-like texture. The Dior logo embossed. Artistically presented, with handwritten names on them. Mademoiselle this-and-that. One man’s trash, et cetera!

I have no idea if people left the invitations behind deliberately, as an etiquette, a critical standpoint, or out of laziness, but they must have been expensive to make, I thought. And if I hadn’t picked them up they’d be thrown in the bin. These first rescued discards, show invites with strangers’ names on them, prompted my collection of fashion show remnants and remains that today makes up the collection of the International Library of Fashion Research in Oslo. What’s Nike without just doing it?

A library is both “symbol and reality of universal memory,” as author Umberto Eco said. I founded the International Library of Fashion Research in 2020, as a specialized library focused on fashion-related print materials. I wanted these historical documents, from books to magazines to show invitations (like my precious Dior invite) to press releases, things with high artistic production value as well as more rudimentary objects, to be available and accessible for everyone.

Given the increasing priority for everything to be digital, it felt crucial—perhaps more than ever—to preserve, document, and mediate fashion-focused printed matter, and to have it consolidated in one place. Thus, I wanted to create a meeting point for all kinds of researchers, professionals, and fashion enthusiasts worldwide to consult with this tactile material.

As digitization threatens the tradition of physical archiving, I wanted people to smell these objects, to touch them, to grapple with them with bare hands. To experience a slower, more thorough digest of information than what we are used to in this fast and accelerated digital climate. The archive as an antidote to our square eyes and ever shortening attention spans. 

Now anyone can see and touch these show invites, which usually would have circulated within a very limited and gate kept milieu of VIP customers, buyers, and press. They were created by brands’ communications departments, hence the high production value. Now, again, we don’t know exactly why they’d leave them behind on the front row, but my theory would be that they were originally created for commercial ends with a promotional function, and therefore rarely given the intellectual study or consideration that they might deserve.

Sales materials are often dismissed and ignored. But fashion’s printed matter exists to promote or sell something, it creates allure and desire around products, and this is exactly what sets fashion apart from other industries. It’s also why I think we need to embrace such material: Commercial matter is the footprint of the industry, a powerful tool for understanding the industrial, historic, and symbolic evolution of fashion.

Thank you Elise, for sharing this beautiful personal-essay-meets-archivist’s-manifesto with us!!

P.S.

A few of the things we’ve been reading, watching, and talking about at the studio lately.

That’s all from me today. See you next time.

Love,
Dinamo x

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